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| EIGHT
METHODS TO USE WHEN REMOVING STAINS
There
are eight basic techniques for stain removal: brushing,
flushing, freezing, presoaking, pretreating, scraping,
sponging, and tamping. Using the right technique along
with the proper solutions with help ease the removal of
the stain.
| BRUSHING Brushing
is the first step used for removal of dry stains,
( i. e. mud). The fabric should be stretched out
on a smooth surface and using a small stiff brush,
brush the residue onto a sheet of paper. |
| FLUSHING Flushing
is used to remove loosened residue and stain removing
solutions from the fabrics. It is important if you
are flushing on nonwashable materials, to control
the spread of water through the garment. This is
accomplished by applying water with an eyedropper
or spray bottle trigger which allows for direct
placement of minimal amounts of water. Begin applying
water, an absorbent pad is to be placed under the
spot. This pad should be changed before the water
and stains fills it up. If the fabric is washable,
the article should be rinsed with warm water after
flushing is completed. |
| FREEZING Freezing is
used to remove candle wax, chewing gum, and other
gooey substances. Hold an ice cube against the stain
until it is frozen. If the surface is nonwashable,
place the ice cube in a plastic bag to avoid the
area from becoming wet. After the stain has become
solidified, it can be gently lifted or scraped off
the surface. |
| PRESOAKING Garments
that have become yellowed, grayed, or heavily soiled
should be presoaked in a solution for no longer
than 30 minutes. Items that are not colorfast should
only be presoak very briefly. Bleach, laundry detergent,
or an enzyme presoak can be used, however, do not
use bleach and an enzyme together. Items should
be rinsed thoroughly before laundering to remove
any presoak solution left on them. |
| PRETREATING Oily, greasy
stains should be pretreated with a spray of liquid
laundry detergent, stain removing spray, bar soap,
or pretreating paste made from powdered detergent.
The solution should be rubbed into the fabric and
then laundered as normal. |
| SCRAPING Solid material
should be scraped away with a dull knife, spoon,
or spatula before applying stain remover. Short
strokes should be applied, without pressing to
hard,across the surface of the stain. |
| SPONGING If possible,
put an absorbent pad under the stain before starting.
Using a sponge or pad, apply the stain removing
solution and sponge the stain gently using light
strokes working inward toward the center. As either
pad becomes stained, it should be changed. If working
on acetate, rayon or triacetate, rings can appear
from sponging. The sponge or pad should be barely
wet and the fabric should be touched lightly. Allow
to thoroughly dry and do not iron or dry with heat. |
| TAMPING To remove
stains from durable, tightly woven fabrics, tamping
should be done with a soft-bristle brush. The
stained article is place on a hard surface without
a pad, and the stain is lightly rapped with he
bristles until the stain is removed. This method
should only be used when directed as tamping could
damage fabrics. |
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| Eight Basic
Rules for Spot Removal
There is one sure way to take the stress out of removing
stains--doing it right the first time!
Here
are some basic rules for stain removal techniques:
- The quicker
the better: it is best
to treat a stain as soon as it appears. The longer it
sets, the more likely the stain will be permanent
- Know what you
are cleaning: identify both
the stain and the surface it is on. Both will have an
affect on how you treat the stain.
- Clean it off
before you clean it: remove as much
of the stain as possible before you begin to the stain
removal process
- Be
gentle rubbing, folding, wringing, and squeezing cause
stains to penetrate more deeply and may damage delicate
fabrics.
- Keep it cool: avoid using hot water, high heat in dryers, and irons on
stains. The heat makes some stains almost impossible
to remove.
- Pretest stain
removers: even water
can damage some fabrics, always test any cleaner you
plan to use on an inconspicuous place before using
- Follow directions: read the manufacturer's
labels and the directions on product containers
- Work
from the edges into the center: by working from the
edges toward the center, you will not spread the stain
or leave a ring
In
order to identify the type of stain, you need to know
the difference between the 3 types of stains:GREASY STAINS, NON-GREASY STAINS, COMBINATION STAINS. |
| GREASY STAINS
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| Did
you every drop the buttered popcorn bucket on your lap
in the movies, or inadvertently hit the dipstick on your
sleeve while checking the oil in your car? Well these
are greasy stains. Sometimes a greasy stain can be removed
during laundering. The stain should be pretreated with
liquid laundry detergent by gently rubbing it in. If the
fabric is nonwashable, the stain should be spotted with
a dry-cleaning solution. The removal may take several
attempts but the fabric should be allowed to completely
dry between attempts.
Greasy
stains can also be removed from nonwashable fabrics by
using an absorbent, such as cornmeal, cornstarch, French
chalk, or fuller's earth (mineral clay available at most
drug stores). Dust the area with the absorbent. When it
appears to be caked and dry, brush or shake off the absorbent.
Absorbents are easy to use and will not harm fabrics. However
dry cleaning chemicals, detergents, and bleach can damage
fabrics. Always pretest an inconspicuous area before using.
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| NON-GREASY STAINS
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| A
non greasy stain is easy to acquire and not impossible
to remove. A non greasy stains include fruit juice, coffee,
tea, ink, and also food coloring.
If
you are treating a non-greasy stain on a washable fabric,
the first thing to do is sponge the stain with cool water
as soon as possible. If this doesn't work, soak the fabric
in cool water from 1/2 hour to overnight. If some of the
stain is still present gently rub liquid detergent into
the stain and rinse with cool water. As a last resort,
bleach can be used only after reading the manufacturer's
label and pretesting an inconspicuous area. If the stain
has been ironed or is old, it may be impossible to get
out.
If
the stain does not come out after sponging it with cool
water, a flushing method should be used. Place an absorbent
pad under the stain and flush the stain with water by
using an eye dropper or spray bottle. Liquid detergent
can also be applied if needed. If the stain is new, this
method should remove the stain entirely. The spot can
be rubbed with alcohol after it is rinsed to remove detergent
residue and to speed drying. (CAUTION: If you're treating
acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, rayon, triacetate, or vinyl,
be sure to dilute the alcohol with water, 1 part alcohol
to 2 parts water |
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| COMBINATION STAINS |
| Combination stains
can be double the trouble. Coffee with cream, salad dressing,
lipstick contain both greasy and nongreasy stains. Getting
rid of combination stains is a two step process. First get
rid of the non-greasy stain, using the above methods, and
then remove the greasy stain. |
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| The
following explanation of terms will help you remove most
stains |
| WET SPOTTER mix one part
of glycerine, one part white dishwashing liquid, and eight
parts of water. Store in a plastic squeeze bottle and
shake well before using. Glycerine can be found in your
local grocery, pharmacy or hardware store.
DRY SPOTTER combine one part
coconut oil and 8 parts liquid dry cleaning solvent. Store
in a tightly capped container to prevent evaporation.
Coconut oil might be very difficult to find, if so, mineral
oil can be substituted.
DRY CLEANING SOLVENT perchloroethylene,
trichloroethylene, trichlorethane are three of the most
common and effective ingredients in dry cleaning solvents.
Most solvents are nonflammable, but their fumes are toxic
and should not be inhaled. These chemicals will probably
be very difficult to obtain, substitute products found
on the market such as Goof Off, Goo Gone. Perky etc can
be used..
FLUSHING When flushig
a stain, you need to control the flow of water carefully
so that you don't spread the stain or get the fabric wetter
than you need to. An eyedropper or spray bottle with trigger
adjusted to fine stream lets you control the amount of
liquid flushed through the fabric. Place an absorbent
pad under the spot. Then slowly apply liquid to the stain.
Work slowly so that you don't flood the pad with more
liquid than it can absorb. Replace the absorbent pad frequently
to prevent the deposited staining material from restaining
the fabric.
TAMPING The best way
to get some stains out of tightly woven fabrics is to
tamp them with a soft bristled brush (like a toothbrush).
Place the stained article on a hard surface, not a pad,
and lightly rap the stain with the tips of the bristles.
Us this technique only when it is recommended in our Stain-removal
guide because tamping will harm most fabrics.
SCRAPING scrape away solid
staining material with a dull knife, spoon, or spatula
before you apply stain removers. Don't press too hard;
move the edge of your scraping tool back and forth across
the stain in short strokes.
BLOTTING using an absorbent
pad and working from the outer edge of the stain toward
the center of the stain, firmly press against the stain,
using a rocking motion. Change the pad frequently as it
picks up the stain. Do not rub!
ABSORBENTS absorbents 'soak
up" grease stains. We consider cornmeal the best absorbent
for light colors, and fuller's earth the best for dark
colors. Spread the absorbent on the stained area and allow
to work. As the grease is soaked up, the absorbent will
become cakey or gummy. It should be then shaken or brushed
off. You should repeat the process until the stain has
been removed. This may take as long as 8 hours
AMYL ACETATE Chemically pure
amyl acetate, or banana oil, is available in drug stores;
it's safe for use on fibers that could be damaged by acetone,
but it should ot be allowed to come in contact with plastics
or furniture finishes. CAUTION Amyl Acetate is poisonous
and flammable. Avoid contact with skin. |
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